Cigarette Etiquette

Todd Snyder Fall 2012 [Photo Source]

I’m usually a fan of what comes out of the Todd Snyder mills, but this season… I absolutely love what they churned out - and apparently so does everyone else. I barely need to say anything about the Fall line because the world has already spoken for it. Beyond that, the clothes speak volumes on their own; even the models look stoked about their temporary outfits.

The feel is obviously military, with a rugged, vintage, country-boy aesthetic. But not American country boys, European country boys: A bit too chic for the set of Brokeback Mountain, but too scuffed up to be seen on Prince Harry (maybe I’m wrong, he might rock it). What I really appreciate are the shots of hunter orange seen in a few of the looks, adding to that outdoorsy feel. The trousers do a nice job of counteracting the ruggedness, with modern, slim cuts and a nice wool texture that manages not to scream “Businessman on Mad Ave.” An abundance of buttons also helps create a warm and cozy subdued luxury.

Some negatives need to be pointed out though: The cardigans appear a bit awkward, although warm. In particular, a look pairing a black cardigan with a drab, pukey yellow ochre-and-brown, plaid button up certainly failed to make the model look like a sexy camper who just crawled his way out of a bear cave, slapped on a tie, and showed up at your Welsh parents’ estate to ask you out to the bars in town - in the height of post-WWII victory fervour, obviously. Could I also ask Snyder what these gloves are? I’ve seen too many dudes in Brooklyn and the Lower East Side trying to rock their lumberjack chicness with fingerless gloves as a must-have accessory. End this fad immediately.

If I’m being honest though, I’d buy nearly every piece. The sweaters are thick and cozy; the coats are classic and stylish, something you could wear every winter for several years; hearty boots that can take a beating from a hike in the French countryside, yet classy enough to dazzle your date; an excellent colour palette that isn’t obnoxiously Autumnal dark, as often expressed in New York, but maintains brooding qualities that keep with tradition. My favourite look was rocked by Captain America: White sweater layered over a gray shirt, topped with a tan, ranch hand’s coat; combined that with the fitted trousers and military boots, and the First Avenger goes from cattle-brander to rugged aviator, who probably just snagged Grandma’s purse back from a street urchin.Todd Snyder, I welcome your tough, back-from-the-frontlines gentleman with open arms.

- D

(Source: cigarette-etiquette)

Helmut Lang Fall 2012 [Photo Source]

Identifiably Helmut Lang- relaxed draping and asymmetric hemlines. There were, however, an unexpected number of tailored suits. I suppose if a Helmut Lang girl worked a 9-to-5 this is what she’d wear, but I’m so accustomed to the artfulness of the brand that these looks bored me. But it reflects a significant trend. Hard edge is on the way out and this is a compromise toward maturity. 

The line provided the dark charm I love with abstract prints inspired by stone, trees, molten lava and other nature references. The red and black print covering neckline to wedge was a powerful image, like a woman burned alive. Morbidly fascinating. All over monoprint was my favorite styling device in the collection and I’m sure I’ll be opting for a toned-down version next winter. 

A few leatherclad pieces looked like heroines in a fantasy novel, the appeal of which C&D disagree on. I think I’ve seen too many bad renaissance goth looks to shake my skepticism of the Middle Earth aesthetic. 

- C

(Source: cigarette-etiquette)